Genuine warmth, hospitality, cleanliness, discipline, architecturally marvelous buildings, and food to savour; nothing comes short to appreciate the ‘Land of Happiness’
BASIL SYLVESTER PINTO
This is not a figment of my imagination but a Shangri La on our planet does exist, in a world otherwise usurped by vestige interest and avarice. Bhutan, tucked in the Eastern Himalayas is a little kingdom where Gross National Happiness matters more than Gross Domestic Product. The locals invariably wear a smile as much as being culturally ingrained to their traditional attire. Their love and respect for their First Family is evident from picture frames adorning the walls in hotels and other establishments as also their homes.
Under their Constitutional mandate, Bhutanese are expected to maintain at least 60 per cent green cover in their country. Adhering to this practice, and with around 72 per cent of the country under a carpet of green, Bhutan is the only carbon negative country in the world. This attribute guarantees every tourist visiting Bhutan a therapeutic experience.
After completing your immigration formalities at the border town with India at Phuentsholing, Bhutan allows you a week’s permit at Thimphu and Paro. As you drive into the commercial Western part of Bhutan, spectacular views of lush verdant valleys and agrarian lands greet you at every turn, as fruit and vegetable vendors wait upon customers by the side of rustic surroundings.
Ubiquitous with Bhutan, is its appeal to Buddhist sanctity. The incredibly majestic dzongs (fortresses) now serving a dual purpose for administration and religion, and beautiful lhakangs (temples) each have a story to tell deeply rooted in historic and spiritual significance. Guided tours that come with an entry fee to these sacred places and other sitesleave upon the visitor an indelible impression of the understanding of Buddhism and Bhutanese culture.
Wafting with the breeze you will see colourful prayer flags fluttering by the road or even in the foliage that lead up to a monastery. There are also these large white prayer flags grouped together in the fields honouring departed souls. Then there are the large prayer wheels that are not only found at lhakangs but even by commercial avenues, where Buddhists count down on prayer beads as they murmur mantras while turning these prayer wheels in a clock-wise direction.
Bhutan is genuinely warm and hospitable on the street and at the hotel, and cleanliness, discipline, architecturally marvelous buildings, and food to savour; nothing comes short to appreciate the ‘Land of Happiness.’
Cuisine here is rich and varied. Their love for spices, particularly red chilies in flavoring their food is celebrated. Ema Datshi (chilli peppers) is a highly recommended national dish for the tourist, while another popular vegetarian dish is Kewa Datshi (potato). Moving over to the non-vegetarian palate, Bhutanese love for pork and chicken is well-known from the menu. You could try Jhasa Paa or Jhasa Maroo (chicken dishes) or sample Phaksha Paa or Sekam Paa (pork cuisine). Their distinctive red rice is worth a taste too. While smoking in public is illegal, and drinking openly is not allowed, alcoholic beverages for consumption at hotels or indoors is permissible.
As you enter Thimphu, the capital city, there will be a welcome gate, a feature seen with every city entry point in the country. The hub of Thimphu is around the Clock Tower square where a lot of cultural events take place. Late evenings in the capital are best kept for exploring the commercial area. Take the opportunity to visit the handicraft stalls within the precincts and pick-up uniquely crafted souvenirs such as little figurine keychains dressed in a gho (male traditional outfit) and kira (for females), small replicas in the Bhutanese traditional costume, a small Buddha or a spinning prayer wheel; not to mention, little prayer flags.
Interestingly, Thimphu does not have traffic lights, and need not too. Traffic flow in the city is orderly with minimal vehicular movement. Honking is non existent . While the country capital has the maximum concentration of vehicles, it eases out as you move further into the little kingdom.
In the course of your stay in Bhutan, you will see every building or home basking in its architectural splendour. Do note that symbols painted on these structures should be respected. As a tourist there is no reason to bear resentment or embarrassment if you see a phallus as a work of art on a building or a house. Phallus is an esoteric symbolization of fertility and representation to ward off evil spirits. There is even a fertility temple called the Chimi Lakhang built in the honour of the Divine Madman who made the phallus a significant part of the Bhutanese beliefs.
While in the capital, you may visit the local football stadium to watch a game or even try out your hand at archery – the National sport of Bhutan.
National Memorial Chorten, Buddha Dordenma, Takin Preserve, Changangkha Lhakang, Tashichho
Dzong, Textile and Folk Heritage Museum, National Library and Arts and Crafts School should be listed on your itinerary for Thimphu as well. National Memorial Chorten was built to symbolize the mind of the Buddha honouring the wish of the Late Third King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk. A prominent city landmark, the lesser privileged at the prayer wheels on the left of the premises are well-cared for. As you move towards the two-level inner sanctum the resplendence of mandalas, statues and shrines fills you with amystical aura. The towering 169 metres Buddha Dordenma gilded statue in bronze and gold meditatively seats on the Kuensel Phodrang hill is to behold. The location of the gigantic Shakyamuni Buddha statue provides for a panoramic view of the Thimphu valley. Inside the largest statue of the country, there are 125,000 miniature Buddhas encapsulated in its enlightened bronze chest, ranging from 8 to 12 inches tall. This means that in Thimphu, which has a population of around 100,000, there are more Buddhas than there are human beings. Meanwhile, the Takin Preserve is a protected area for the Takin, the national animal which looks like a cross between a cow and a goat. It is attributed as a creation of the 15 th century lama, Drupka Kunley. There are also different species of deer and jungle fowl kept in the preserve.
While in Thimphu, ensure that you get your immigration done if you intend to extend your visit outside Thimphu and Paro.
As you head towards Paro city, stop by a vantage point to have an aerial view of the only international airport in the country at Paro. Listed among the most dangerous airports in the world.
The major attraction in Paro is the trek to Tiger’s Nest which could be done within five hours with the guided tour at the cliff-edge monastery, 900 metres above the Paro valley floor. You can thereon head to the Drukgyel Dzong, a ruined fortress where brave Bhutanese warriors fought off the Tibetan invasion centuries ago. From here, visit the 7th century Kyichu Lhakang, one of the oldest temples in Bhutan. The building of this temple marks the introduction of Buddhism in the country. The Rinpung Dzong should also be on your agenda. Do not miss out on the opportunity of renting out the traditional attire from a store nearby. Evenings can be spent in the commercial streets of Paro.
After spending two days here at the most magnificent city of Bhutan, start out early for Punakha, the erstwhile capital of this country. At the Dochula Pass, get one with the serene surroundings and if lucky on a clear day, you can watch the grandiosity of the snow-capped peaks. The location had us contented with the historical aura at the war memorial built on a mound within its precincts. The Druk Wangyal Khang Zhang Chortens, simply known as the 108 Chortens serves as a memorial for the Bhutanese soldiers who laid down their lives in a battle with the Assamese insurgents. Thereon, move towards the Royal Botanical Park and blend in with the rich and diverse ecosystem of the region. Head later towards the Punakha Dzong, arguably the most beautiful dzong in the country.
On your last day, as you head back overland into India at Jaigaon via the Bhutan Gate, stop by the Kharbandi Lhakang. Situated at a good height it gives a picturesque view that overlooks Phuentsholing city and the West Bengal plains and its tea gardens beyond. As you return home, the Buddhist country will be etched to wonderful memories.
