Saturday 20 Apr 2024

Runway to green

BASIL SYLVESTER PINTO The runway to green took place in Goa recently at Kala Academy with Green Fashion India (GFI) Goa 2018. Among the designers on showcase with their sustainable collections was Goa’s Ninoshka Alvares Delaney. TG Life caught up with the enterprising sustainable fashion designer from Saligao to know more about her collection showcased and the viability of eco-friendly ensembles to the prospective buyer. Following are the excerpts of the interview

| OCTOBER 14, 2018, 04:49 AM IST

TG Life  What has been the inspiration behind the Indigo collection showcased at GFI Goa 2018?  

The inspiration was revolving around the usage of the indigo dye. Given that the Green Fashion India conference where I showcased , focused on the impressionable future designers from all across India, I tried to showcase all the aspects of sustainable fashion that I adopt in my creations including natural dyieng, upcycling, reversible garments , handloom fabrics , organic cotton, etc.

TG Life  What is the design technique used to bring to impact the story behind your collection?

Indigo is one of the oldest textile dyes known, and it comes from India. It used to be the sign of luxury and has a very calming effect. I love to work with Indigo. What you see in this collection is khadis, Shiboris on organic cotton, all dyed in indigo and complimented with Ikats. The garments are embellished with hand embroidery.

TG Life  If you could detail in on the kind of fabrics used, the type of outfits in the ensembles on showcase …

The collection I showcased is a pret collection inspired by Japanese silhouettes, made in khadi, Ikats, and organic cotton. It is a mix of free flowing tunics, asymmetric hem tunics, kimono tops, reversible jackets teamed with fisherman pants and culottes.  

TG Life  Where do you source your fabrics and dyes from?

The fabrics are sourced from various weavers across India including India Handloom Brand (IHB) registered suppliers. The dyes are sourced from nature around me, but I get the dyeing done in Mumbai and Sawantwadi.

TG Life  How do you ensure quality control?

The dyes that are used are earth and skin friendly, and the fabrics are natural and therefore biodegradable. Hence once the garment reaches the end of its lifecycle, it does not damage the earth, or end up in a polluting landfill.

The dyes used have been tested to be fast colours, and do not bleed. Organic cotton is GOTS (Global organic textile standard) certified, ensuring a high standard. IHB registered suppliers whom we source fabric from, have to maintain stringent checks and norms to keep their registration. Being the only registered designer in Goa, we too have to undergo quarterly checks from the Weavers Center to maintain this quality.

TG Life  What is the relevance of sustainable fashion in our lives?

With the amount of open space dwindling due to garbage mounting, a change in our lifestyle is necessary to safeguard our environment and ourselves. Fashion shouldn’t be about just looking good. It should be able to cater to all the different aspects of sustainability, viz, social, economic and ecological. It should be able to sustain everyone in the value chain right from the farmer, to the consumer. I believe that what we take form the earth, should go back to the earth.

TG Life  How is the State taking up to eco-friendly designer outfits?

I retail online and in other States as well, but Goa being a multi-cultural market, the awareness of sustainable fashion has crept in at a fast pace. Many people come to me to get a particular garment dyed in a natural colour. The concept has grown popular very fast, and was shown by the attendance of 650 students from across India for the Green Fashion Conference in Goa recently.

TG Life  What are the misconceptions one would associate with organic fashion?

A big misconception is that sustainable fashion is not glamorous. I’ve made glamorous Silk dresses dyed in onion peals, and bridal gowns and lehengas made in handloom fabric embroidered by rural artisans. I’ve even had some brides reuse their dress for evening wear!

TG Life: . How did your journey start?

I worked in Mumbai for 10 years, and moved back to Goa only after my marriage. I was fortunate to be empanelled with the Dept of textiles and handlooms which enabled me to work with artisans in different parts of India. The childlike enthusiasm they showed in their work inspired me to take their craft to the masses and give them a market which they did not have. Hence I started small, developing just one collection a year. Winning the IHB national award gave me a jump start and I started my studio with the support of my family.


TG Life: What are your future plans?

I am working with a small team of people to revive the handloom weaving here in Goa. I plan to have entire weaving done  in Goa and revive Goan handloom industry. Next, I hope to start a separate line only for kids.

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